Pizza Casserole

I am one of those strange kids who actually liked my school cafeteria food. Fish sticks, tater tots, bring it on! This particular dish was so beloved that my mother got the recipe. Slightly obscured--should call for "1/2 lb. noodles."

Egg & Bologna

I'm not sure how this story ended up here...I was writing up an announcement for my parents' 50th wedding anniversary and had also been thinking about recipes I grew up with and...voila!

So these are the facts: My parents were married 50 years ago on December 22nd, 1961, in Hudson, MI. Isn't the picture above cute?! Some time later I was born, and then my brother, and my mother hunkered down to make 7 dinners a week, 52 weeks a year. We didn't go out all that often because we lived in a very rural area and there weren't a lot of restaurants. I now feel somewhat sorry for my mother, having to sling out all those dinners, though I think she's gotten her revenge since my father now cooks at least as much, if not more often, than she does. In any case, I was raised on a handful of recipes, circa 1950s-'70s, and this one is sort of infamous. It was popular after Easter when we had an abundance of hard-boiled eggs. My dad called it SOS (shit on a shingle) and refused to eat it. But I have to say...I think it is a comfort food I would still eat today!

Basically you make a cream sauce:

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup milk

salt, pepper, paprika to taste

You know how to make a cream sauce right?! When the sauce has reached a creamy consistency, stir in the ground up egg & bologna...

2 hard-boiled eggs

3 oz. bologna

I do not have a food grinder, so I would just finely dice these things. Then serve the slop over saltine crackers. I kid you not, I used to love this SOS!

Here are my parents, 50 years later. Aren't they cute?! Maybe I will make some Egg & Bologna for them and my Dad will roll his eyes...

Masaledar Ublay Unday

I thought the Hindi name for this dish sounded better than "Hard-Boiled Eggs Masala." This is adapted from Quick and Easy Indian Cooking by Madhur Jaffrey, a cookbook I had been wanting to get ever since I made another recipe, Stir-Fried Cabbage, which I loved immediately. When I finally got the cookbook about a year ago I decided to try EVERY RECIPE... well, except for the ones with chicken liver and cauliflower. There's only about 70 recipes, so the undertaking didn't sound that daunting. But after about 8 recipes, I had a bit of Indian overload. So I'm taking a break, but the mission will resume shortly!

The one recipe I kept thinking about in the meantime though, was this humble sounding entree. I don't usually think of hard-boiled eggs as part of an entree, but it works! I recently served this over some boiled potatoes and spinach and it made for quite a robust meal. The sauce is really astounding, in my opinion.

One unfortunate thing about this cookbook, however, is that even though it was recently re-issued with a spiffy new design, I don't thing the original 1996 text was updated. So they always put in parentheses after cilantro "Chinese parsley, fresh green coriander;" who the hell doesn't know what cilantro is in this day and age?! One of the recipes is called "The Most Delicious Meat Cubes," which is just wrong. And the amount of onion in this recipe is listed as "5 tablespoons (2.5 ounces)." Who measures an onion that way? I'm just going with one small onion!

OK, enough making fun of the text and on to this most delicious recipe...

1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

3/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper

Combine all of the above with 1 tablespoon of water and set aside.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 - 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 small onion, finely diced

1/2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped

1 14.5 oz. can diced tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into halves or quarters

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the cumin seeds. Cook for 10 seconds, then add the onion and ginger. Cook and stir for a few minutes until onions start to brown, then add spice paste. Cook for 15 seconds, then add tomatoes and sugar. Turn down the heat, cover, and gently simmer for 10 minutes. Uncover the pan and add the cilantro, then gently drop in the eggs and spoon some sauce over them. Simmer for 2-3 more minutes, then serve.

I suppose a typical accompaniment would be rice, though, like I said before, I like it with potatoes and spinach--as if I was having a bit of samosa as well.

Basic Fall Chili

One time I made this recipe for someone and they were surprised to learn that you didn't need 27.5 ingredients and 3.5 hours of simmering to make chili. The flavors may not be quite as complex, but this is the recipe I grew up with and, most of the time, its simplicity suits me just fine!

As I look closely at the recipe card, I see "parley"--which I assume is "parsley." This is very odd as I don't recall ever using parsley! We often served this over rice and then sprinkled grated cheese and saltines on top. I know, very authentic!

1 onion, diced (and maybe some garlic if you're so inclined)
1 pound ground beef or turkey
28-ounce can whole tomatoes, with juice
14-ounce can kidney beans
1 tablespoon chili powder
salt, pepper, cayenne, additional cumin to taste

Saute onion (and garlic) in olive or vegetable oil over medium heat. When soft, add meat and break up somewhat. Cook until browned, then dump in everything else. Break up the tomatoes with a spoon, and simmer 10-15 minutes--or longer to reach desired consistency.

Curried Chicken Turnovers

For some reason I think of this as a spring recipe--though it's hard to believe spring is really here! Don't skip the dipping sauce; it goes perfectly with the savory filling. Adapted from a Martha Stewart recipe.

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons fresh ginger, peeled & minced

4+1/2 teaspoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon flour, plus more for dusting

1+1/2 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup plain yogurt

4+1/2 teaspoons tomato paste

1/4 cup applesauce

1/2 cup frozen peas

1/4 cup heavy cream

salt, lemon juice

4 sheets puff pastry, thawed

1 egg, lightly beaten

Cucumber Dipping Sauce (see below)

Rub chicken breasts with salt & pepper and bake at 350 degrees for 30-40 minutes until cooked through. (The original recipe calls for simmering the breasts in salted water for approximately 12 minutes. I thought baking would be better than poaching, though actually I have no idea!) Let chicken cool, then shred with a fork into 2-inch pieces or smaller.

Heat oil in a large skillet and cook onion, garlic & ginger over medium to medium-high heat until golden, about 8 minutes. Stir in curry powder, cumin and flower; cook one minute. Whisk in stock and bring to a boil. Stir in yogurt, tomato paste and applesauce. Boil one minute, then reduce heat to medium low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes. Stir in peas and chicken and let thicken a bit, about 3 minutes. Stir in cream and season with salt & lemon juice (I'd start with about a teaspoon each). Let mixture cool.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lay a pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface and cut into 4 squares. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the chicken mixture onto each square, leaving a 1-inch border. Brush edges with egg wash and fold over edges to a make a triangle. Press edges to seal. Bake until golden, about 20-25 minutes. Serve with dipping sauce. (Unbaked turnovers can be frozen, wrapped in plastic and foil for one month; thaw before baking.)

Cucumber Dipping Sauce (this is very similar to a Tzatziki sauce, but without dill or mint)

8 ounces English cucumber, peeled

1 cup plain yogurt

1/4 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Finely dice cucumber (which I prefer), or grate. Press between paper towels or a dish towel to remove as much water as possible. Combine with remaining ingredients. Refrigerate any leftover sauce.

Vegetable Lasagne

I don't remember the last time I made a traditional meat & tomato sauce lasagne. Not that I don't like it, but I love this variation with spinach & carrots even more. I usually make this in a 9" x 9" casserole (more on that below), which means you have to trim the noodles to fit the pan and the layers are quite thick. Alternately you could use a 9" x 13" pan, which would result in thinner layers. Depending on how much crunch you like, you may want to parboil the carrots for a minute or two. I often add them to the spinach towards the end of it's cooking time, and then you can just drain all the veggies together before adding them to the rest of the filling.

Miscellaneous question: why do lasagne noodles always shred when you boil them??

9 cooked lasagne noodles

filling

2+1/2 cups ricotta

1 cup shredded mozzarella and/or fontina cheese (I used an Italian cheese blend this time)

1 cup diced carrot

1 package frozen spinach, cooked & well-drained

1 egg, slightly beaten

1 large onion, finely diced (use 1/2 for filling, 1/2 for sauce)

Mix all ingredients and season with salt & pepper. Spread one layer of noodles in a 9" x 9" or 9" x 13" pan and top with half the filling. Top with layer of noodles, other half of filling, and final layer of noodles. Go to sauce directions...

sauce

1 - 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup ricotta

Sauté remaining onions in the oil until soft. Add flour and cook for a minute, then whisk in broth and remaining ricotta. Bring to a boil and simmer until it thickens slightly (shouldn't take long). Season with salt & pepper, if necessary. Pour sauce over the lasagne layers. Sprinkle with additional mozzarella if desired. Cook at 375° for 30-45 minutes, until bubbly around the edges and top is lightly browned.

~~~~~

Below is a favorite casserole that my mother made. Unfortunately, after years of service it has developed this scary crack down the middle. Every time I use it I'm afraid it may be the last. But it held up this time!

Tuscan Beans & Pasta

Something to know about this up front: you will have to sweep your floor after making this dish. Things get a little hairy for about 5 minutes because it turns out brittle spaghetti does not like to be stirred. But ultimately, it's worth it. This pasta is cooked like risotto, in that you add liquid to the starch and wait for it to be absorbed before adding more liquid. This is a--gulp--Rachel Ray recipe (adapted), though how she made it in 30 minutes I have no idea. Plan on closer to an hour.

5 - 6 cups chicken stock

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 pound chunk pancetta or bacon, cut into small dice

4 cloves garlic, minced

6 - 10 ounces spaghetti, broken in half

1 medium onion, chopped

1 carrots, cut into small dice

1 bay leaf

5 - 6 sprigs fresh thyme (dried is fine too)

1 15-ounce can Roman beans or small white beans

1 cup dry white wine or vermouth

1 cup grated Parmesan

salt & pepper

1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

lemon wedges (optional)

Bring the stock to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and brown slightly. Add the garlic and spaghetti and toast the pasta slightly, 3 - 4 minutes. [This is when everything starts flying. Be patient!] Add onions, carrots, bay leaf and thyme. Soften veggies a bit, about 5 minutes. Add wine or vermouth and allow it to be completely absorbed. Add beans, then a few ladles of stock and stir the pasta. Keep adding stock a few ladles at a time, allowing liquid to be mostly absorbed before adding more. When the spaghetti is cooked to al dente turn off the heat, add a little more liquid and stir in the cheese. Adjust seasoning. Remove the bay leaf and thyme stems. Garnish with parsley and lemon wedges.

Cook's Illustrated

After 10 years, I have finally decided not to continue my subscription to Cook's Illustrated. It's kind of sad because I've always been a big fan and have given gift subscriptions to several friends and family members. I've never had a subscription with one particular magazine for such a long time, and I've kept all my issues (60+). One of the reasons I'm not renewing is that I just don't cook from it very often anymore, so I've decided to go through and index all the recipes (or most, not every single variation and occasionally there's one I just can't stomach) in the hopes that I will reference these more when I'm looking for a particular type of recipe. This project, too, has been traumatic...realizing how my life has changed over the past 10 years, seeing some of my favorite recipes again, coming across the Sept. '01 issue (more for the date than the content--though I still use the Spaghetti alla Carbonara recipe!), realizing how many recipes I haven't made or even given a second glance...

Some of the things I will not miss:

• Charlie Kimball's folksy, Vermont-laden introductions. I live 5 miles from Vermont now and just find it over the top. Enough already!
• Chicken recipes. Holy crap! While doing the index I realized just how many chicken recipes they have published (approximately 10% of the almost 700 recipes). In fact, it's standard for every issue to have a beef and pork recipe, and at least one chicken dish.
• Brussels sprouts recipes...because they haven't done any in the past 10 years!
• all their self-promotion ads--usually one or two wrap-around covers, and two sets of inserts

Some of the things I will miss:

• the funky and often funny "quick tips" readers send in (even if some seemed ridiculous), and also a lot of the technique and taste test features (best ever product recommendation: The Unicorn Magnum Peppermill which can be ordered from Unicorn Mills. Quite ugly, but otherwise magnificent!)
• the pretty ingredient drawings on the back cover

So, I still hope to consult these issues often--perhaps more than I have recently. And I also use their "Best Recipes" book on a regular basis. But I think I've accumulated enough now. To commemorate this occasion, I'm printing my ALL-TIME FAVORITE RECIPE that first came out in the March/April 2001 issue and that I still make at least once a month. (FYI, this is my second favorite.) Most people who know me well know how attached to this recipe I am. Some may argue that I'm a little too attached to it, and especially the amount of garlic I use! Without further ado, Pasta with Garlic & Oil:

1 pound linguine (the original recipe calls for spaghetti)

kosher salt

4 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup (or more!) minced garlic

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons (or more) fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

grated Parmesan

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add pasta and salt liberally. Cook to al dente, reserve 1/2 cup cooking water, then drain the rest. While water is heating, add the olive oil, all BUT 1-2 teaspoons of the garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt to a large skillet. Cook over low heat. Once it starts to sizzle a bit, stir constantly until garlic foams and is sticky & straw-colored, 10-12 minutes. [It's very important to cook the garlic slowly, you don't want to rush and burn it.] Remove from heat and add remaining raw garlic, red pepper flakes, lemon juice, parsley and half the pasta cooking water; adjust seasoning as needed (may need more salt or lemon juice). Pour this over the pasta and combine. If it's too dry add more of the pasta cooking water. Dump in a warmed pasta bowl or bowls and sprinkle with Parmesan.

(Apparently this picture is pre-Parmesan!)

(Not-very-authentic) Paella

First, I cut this out of GQ or Esquire magazine years ago as a "date meal" men could easily make...so not a very authentic source for this traditional Spanish dish! Second, I have liberally adapted it to suit my tastes...really it should have lots of seafood, maybe some peppers and peas. This is a more tomato-y version, the combination of tomatoes, olives and capers almost like an Italian puttanesca sauce. Hard to go wrong with that trinity, in my opinion!

1 cup rice

2 + 1/2 cups chicken broth

8 ounces chorizo, sliced

5 tablespoons butter

2 chicken breasts, cut into 1" chunks

4 teaspoons dried oregano

1 medium onion, minced

2+ cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup black olives, chopped

3 tablespoons capers

2 bay leaves

1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes

1 ounce chipotle pepper, sliced

1/3 cup chopped cilantro

1/3 cup chopped parsley

lemon wedges

Combine rice and 2 cups chicken broth and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer until rice is almost done. Remove from heat. Saute chorizo in a skillet until edges get a little charred. Remove from pan and drain on some paper towels. If pan has excessive grease, drain--though it's fine to leave a little in the pan for the chicken. Add 1-2 tablespoons butter to the skillet. Sprinkle chicken with oregano, salt & pepper, and saute until just cooked; set aside.

In a large skillet, saute onion and garlic in remaining butter over medium heat until soft. Add olives, capers, bay leaves and tomatoes. Mix in chicken, rice, parsley, cilantro and chipotles. Adjust seasonings and add some chicken broth if it seems dry. Remove from heat and let sit for one hour so flavors can combine. Reheat and serve with lemon wedges. (Lemon seems to enhance almost any tomato dish!)

Ricotta-Lasagne Swirls

I think we picked this recipe up from some '60s or '70s vegetarian cookbook when my brother was going through his vegetarian phase. That has long since passed, but it's still an excellent comfort food dish!

Please note that this dish needs to be heavily seasoned. Do not skimp on the salt & pepper unless you prefer bland food. I also added a pinch or two of cayenne to the tomato sauce. Likewise, more sauce is better. I didn't have any tomato sauce on hand and used a 15 oz. can of diced tomatoes instead, blending about half of the mixture so it wasn't quite so chunky. While it tasted fine, it wasn't quite enough sauce.

filling

1 bunch fresh spinach or 1 package frozen spinach

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan

1 cup ricotta

pinch of nutmeg

salt & pepper

sauce

1/2 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves (or more) chopped garlic

2 cups tomato sauce

1/2 teaspoon basil

salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook 8 lasagne noodles until soft. Drain and let cool. Saute onions in some olive oil. When soft, add garlic and cook for one minute longer. Add tomato sauce and seasonings, and simmer for 5-10 minutes.

Coarsely chop the fresh spinach and saute in some olive oil until completely wilted, OR defrost the frozen spinach and drain well. Mix together with the rest of the filling ingredients. Divide into 8 portions--should come out to about 2-3 table spoons each. Coat each lasagne noodle with a portion of the filling, roll up and place in a casserole dish (or in this case, end up in a bread pan-shaped dish). Cover with sauce and bake for 30 minutes.

Tomato Pie

I think really fresh, ripe tomatoes might be my favorite food. So wait to make this recipe until you can get the best tomatoes. If you must, use decent tomatoes and supplement with some good canned diced tomatoes (I like Muir Glen). This recipe is adapted from the The Tomato Festival Cookbook (Storey pub., here in the Berkshires), and the recipe comes from Chaiwalla restaurant in Salisbury , Connecticut (which is not that far from me, so I really must get down there and try this in person!). The biscuit-y crust is a key component, though it can overwhelm the tomatoes so I like to pile the tomatoes really high. I often skip the chives since the ones you find in the grocery store can be rather insipid; I think thinly-sliced shallots would work well instead.

2 cups flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons butter, cold & cut into several pieces

2/3 cup milk, more or less

1 pound (or more) ripe tomatoes, skinned and sliced

salt & freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons slivered basil leaves

1 tablespoon snipped chives

1 + 1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese (I threw in some Parmesan as well)

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl, mix flour, baking powder and salt. Cut in the butter until crumbly. (Some people uses forks, I use a pastry blender.) Stir in enough milk to make a springy dough. Spread some flour on your counter and roll out two-thirds of the dough to a size large enough to fit into a 9" pie plate. Place in pie pan, then put in a layer of tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, basil, chives, and some cheese. Repeat layers until all the tomatoes have been used. On the last layer, spread the mayonnaise over the top (a squirt bottle helps with this) before sprinkling on the remaining cheese.

Roll out the remaining dough and cover the pie. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the crust is golden. Serve warm.